- Fairly easy normal route at grade III
- THE Dolomites classic
- Best view of the Sexten Dolomites
Via a ramp (I) into the base of a chimney gully (I, approx. 40 m) and through the chimney or along its left wall (II+) to the first notch between the south face and the pyramid-like forebody (II, approx. 60 m). Exit the notch slightly uphill to the right onto a small platform (II). Continue through a gully (II) to its end at the second notch. Then further left on easy terrain through a wide gorge (I) upward to the third notch.
Exit the notch slightly keeping right over a steep wall (III) and then follow clearly visible traces (partly cairns) over ramps (max. II+) to two memorial plaques. Ascend through one of the gullies (max. II+), then possibly traverse left on scree bands to the gully that ends in a large, slanted slab. Now climb the pillar left of the gully (max. III-). Quite strenuous and very smooth, climb through the chimney behind a slab on the right (III+, crux) to a notch. From there go left up the steep wall (III) to a belay ring. From the ring climb up a bit (III-) and traverse left on a good ledge with a large block into a small basin (II). Exit this along the wall or via a crack (I, getting easier going up) to the upper terrace ledge (ring band).
Follow the terrace ledge left to a cairn where distinct ascent traces (I) lead towards the summit. The traces go through a short smooth chimney-like gully (III-). At its end ascend left through a gully, then continue right and traverse around a smooth block (III-; "Böser Block"). After a short corner, continue on stepped terrain (I-) to the summit.
Approach to the wall:
From the parking lot at Rifugio Auronzo, follow the wide hiking trail toward Rifugio Lavaredo for about half a kilometer. Then leave the path to the left onto trail traces and ascend toward the notch between the Große and Kleine Zinne. The start is at a slanted gully/ravine system descending from the east side of Große Zinne. Starting elevation approx. 2580 m.
